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A Place in the Japanese Soul
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THE WORLD'S GINSENG CAPITOL
PAGE 2 OF 5
The Ginseng Scientific Research Institute turned out to be a neo-Stalinist building out in the middle of nowhere. We entered the strangely hollow edifice and went through what would become the regular routine at every stop:
- A ginseng infused beverage with that singular kick
- A short film ("Korea...Land of the morning calm..."
- Ginseng propaganda ("Korea ginseng is the BEST in the world! Red ginseng is better than white. Korean ginseng has been made for 1500 years!")
Local beauties await the start of the Kumsan Ginseng Festival's beauty pageant. |
I should mention that the group was both stunned and amused when we learned that -- despite what our itinerary said -- the institute was actually the Ginseng and Tobacco Research Insitute "dedicated to promoting the more healthful enjoyment of ginseng and tobacco products". The irony was completely lost on our Korean hosts, but the Q&A following the film was positively Kafka-esque. We followed the four scientists through vacant hallways into a narrow conference room where they huddled in one corner while we fanned out around them. Even though we could hear each other quite well, we were each provided with a microphone causing our voices to boom out of speakers in the crowded room.
A delightfully informal green tea "ceremony" at the Yehyang Restaurant |
Since the others were still grappling with the phrase "healthful enjoyment...of tobacco", I asked the first question, "Ginseng is a root vegetable like a carrot, turnip or beet -- what exactly makes it so healthful?" I thought this was a simple straightforward question, but the scientist's response was far from straightforward with vague mumbled references to "ginsenocides", "saponins" and "glycosides", not to mention "dammarene from triterpenoid".
Say what?
[CONTINUED BELOW]
A reporter -- noting that in the States "tobacco is generally perceived as rather bad for your health" -- wondered if the research scientists saw a conflict of interest in promoting cigarettes in the same breath as ginseng? The scientists demurred and noted that studies had shown that ginseng could cure cancer, making it a non-issue.
A delightfully informal green tea "ceremony" at the Yehyang Restaurant |
When another reporter inquired as to whether ginseng had any negative effects, they fixed a hostile glare on him that had me wondering if he would be allowed back on our bus. The rest of the Q&A went downhill from that point. This sentiment was not shared by the scientists who seemed visibly relieved that they had "countered" our impertinent questions and concluded by rambling on about how ginseng was very effective against anemia, liver problems, circulation problems, arteriosclerosis, diabetes, fatigue, stress, cancer, AIDS and hangovers. In that order.
Having looked forward to learning about ginseng in depth, I was rather disappointed by this first encounter and the pseudo-scientific propaganda- babble to which wešd been subjected. Back on the bus, someone told me they checked the institutešs log book and except for one entry the day before we arrived, the last worker sign-in was dated three months ago. No wonder the "institute" looked so empty and dusty.
Street theater presented at the Ginseng Festival |
That evening we arrived at the Youssong Hot Springs hotel in Taejon where we had a delightful Chinese dinner and crashed for the night. The hotel rooms had a dank smell, no doubt due to the natural mineral hot springs baths in the basement. Everyone else was exhausted from the long day, but since (apologies to Will Rogers) I've never met a hot springs I didn't like, I wandered downstairs to check out the baths. The clean and spacious spa area was divided by sex, with lockers and an array of toiletries lining the mirrored sinks. In the main room, a large shallow pool dominated the center of the room flanked by rows of showers on one side and a series of smaller, hotter, pools on the other. The baths were terrifically soothing and I left feeling reinvigorated and ready for what prmosied to be a big day tomorrow.
DAY 2
The next morning, I woke early and in lieu of my usual morning shower headed downstairs to enjoy the baths. After enjoying the typical Korean hotel buffet breakfast -- which encompasses everything from eggs and cornflakes to fried shrimp and kim chee (hot pickled cabbage, perhaps Koreašs national dish) -- we checked out of the hotel and boarded our bus for the village of Kumsan. As we hit the highway, Dana, an energetic and pro-active New Yorker, polled the group about visitting Mt. Taedun, a nearby tourist spot not on our official itinerary. Buoyed by the overwhelmingly positive response, she relayed the request to Mr. Park, noting that we could go during our 4 hours "free" time the next day. A worried Mr. Park -- torn between what were obviously his twin imperatives: 1. Please the tour members and 2. Do not deviate from the tour schedule -- agreed to check into it. PAGE 3
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"Ginseng is a root vegetable like a carrot, turnip or beet -- what exactly makes it so healthful?" |