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The Irresistible Pull of a Decaying World

Anyone who has tried booking a Europe trip feels the continent’s decline in the most practical sense — things literally don’t seem sustainable.

Hotels in Spain, France, Switzerland and Italy offer up small rooms that barely squeeze in two at prices that command spacious, well-appointed rooms for families of four in most of the U.S. and Asia. Unreliable internet connections are usually offered at extortionate hourly rates. Hotels charge $38 a head for breakfast buffets that typically run $15-$22 elsewhere. Car rentals involve the depressing prospect of driving sardine cans at daily rates that would command nice SUVs in the States, then having to pay more than double for gas and parking (when you can find any), then having to buy a sticker for the right to drive on ordinary roads that are free to residents (Switzerland). The online booking systems are maddeningly obscure, if not downright cryptic.

We managed to put together an itinerary that includes an acceptable rental car and reasonably convenient hotels with internet connections. But it cost us twice the time and 35% more money than it should have — even with the Euro languishing at the lowest exchange rate in about four years.

Even 25 years ago Europe was a basket case when it came to travel accommodations, but today it is a sad joke. And I’m not one of those inveterate bargain-hunters trying to ferret out once-in-a-lifetime bargains; I’m talking about budgeting a healthy five-figure amount for a reasonably comfortable 2-week driving trip across southwestern Europe for a family of three.

This experience only confirmed my theory that the European economy is being kept afloat by the extortionate premium it charges for the privilege of sipping tiny cups of coffee in its decaying cities. You get a lot of atmosphere and history for the money, but you also get a lot of traffic, inconvenience, unspeakable odors and tobacco smoke with practically every meal. And I haven’t even begun the trip as I write this — merely recalling the less pleasant memories from my last trip stirred up by the booking experience.

Then why bother redoing Europe? It’s impossible to grow up as an American without having instilled into your consciousness all kinds of sentimental ideas about Old-World architecture, outdoor cafes and the desirability of acquainting the young with the western cultural heritage. And, in fairness, I know I will probably experience enough delightful vistas and serendipitous moments to make the trip seem worthwhile. But the recent rapid decline of the Old Continent has me wondering how much longer it can sustain itself on our sentimental valuation of the original genius that created those beautiful old buildings and irresistible sun-baked plazas.

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